At some point in life, car enthusiasts experience a ride in something that burns deep in their memory. You may have witnessed a car blasting down the road that looks and sounds like something you've only seen on the internet or on television, or you may have got a ride in something you've never felt before. What is that whistling noise? What is a turbo? That noise is a Read More
At some point in life, car enthusiasts experience a ride in something that burns deep in their memory. You may have witnessed a car blasting down the road that looks and sounds like something you've only seen on the internet or on television, or you may have got a ride in something you've never felt before. What is that whistling noise? What is a turbo? That noise is a blow-off valve? I think I just rode in the fastest thing I've ever ridden in and it scared the life out of me, and I want more of it and I want it now. There is that one experience that is life-changing forever, where the inception of car passion begins and never dies, and that is with speed and sound. Now, you might be new here and just achieved your dream of getting that WRX or STI, or Evo, or you just got a new GR86. And there are seasoned enthusiasts who have that project that's been in the garage for 5 years but you never gave up and have been collecting parts. And for those of you who are fortunate with a running driving unit that is preparing for the next stage of upgrades, welcome to the Engine section.
Again for those of you who may not have long-term ownership and may not be as experienced. the fun does not last forever, but we can keep the party going for as long as possible. All engines have a shelf life, and when you have an engine with modifications, that shelf life can get shorter depending on how responsible your engine modifications are, combined with your driving habits. Before we get into what we can do to get back on the road, let's discuss a few reasons why you might be here.
WHY DO MODIFIED ENGINES LET GO? WHY DO THEY BLOW?
Between turbocharged engines and powerful naturally-aspirated engines, the reasons are relative. Uneven air/fuel ratios because of a bad tune. Running hard on a tune for sea level at higher elevation or vice versa. Oiling issues in terms of running hard on lateral loads and corners that put the oil in the engine on one bank of the motor starving the other bank. Too much heat from prolonged race use or an improper engine build with improper bearing clearances. All of which is a good way to kill a motor. But since the majority of RSD customers have a turbocharged vehicle, let's get into that aspect a little deeper.
I JUST GOT A WRX. HOW CAN I PREVENT MY ENGINE FROM YEETING ITSELF?
Whether if you have a WRX, STI, Evo, Speed3, Focus ST, A90 Supra, or anything turbocharged in general, at some point you will crave more performance. Many want to go fast on a budget, and the phrase, "good, fast, cheap" doesn't really exist in the real world. One of the most common mistakes when modifying is not getting a proper tune with your modifications. This cannot be emphasized more even if we were to pause and clap before each word. Again, you need a proper tune with every modification you perform on your car. Now, there are some exceptions with intakes, but even still, a proper tune will maximize any power efficiency. This is why the majority of modified Subarus in the world will have an ACCESSPORT along with the rest of your modifications. The worst thing you can do is get an intake and downpipe while you and your buddies install these parts over the weekend and expect to decimate all at race wars (iykyk). Your MAF won't recognize the larger volume of air getting metered into the turbocharger and your downpipe will create a spike in boost. Because you don't have a proper tune and proper fuel modifications to supplement the increase in flow volume, your car will hesitate and hit fuel cut during acceleration. The knee-jerk reaction for some reason for many is to continue to rev the engine hoping that miraculously it will just smooth itself out. 10/10 times this will not happen, and it can lead to an engine rebuild. So let's modify responsibly, let's drive responsibly, and let's spend more time on the road and less time on jack stands.
AIR INDUCTION: By allowing your turbocharger or your intake to breathe in larger volumes of air, or to allow your engine to breathe easier, this will allow your engine to react faster. Your throttle response will improve, the turbo lag will reduce, and you will get more horsepower and torque. In this section, you will find cold air intakes, short ram intakes, as well as drop-in panel filters to maintain or upgrade your engine. Cold Air Intake systems are one of the basic ingredients when performing your first set of modifications because depending on your platform and combined with a good tune, you will net substantial horsepower gains. Your factory airbox is fine for a stock setup but can limit your performance if you perform other modifications such as an exhaust. Like trying to breathe through your nose while running as hard as you can outside when you have allergies. More air will allow you to have more performance. And if you want to slightly upgrade your factory airbox with a better breathing panel filter, we have those options as well.
COLD AIR INTAKES: Cold air intakes in terms of the layout and why they are so successful in making more power is simply by the definition of the title, they draw in colder air. These will typically feature a longer intake pipe when compared to the short ram intake style. Sometimes the design extends the cold air intake pipe all the way inside the fender, but generally, the intake pipe will go from the turbo and out next to an area by your headlight. And the same can be said for naturally aspirated examples such as the BRZ or FR-S except the intake will install directly onto your throttle body. The longer intake pipe will generate cooler air to be inhaled into the engine, and when combined with a proper tune, you can experience a big jump in horsepower. Because both cold air intakes and short ram intakes can make good power with a relatively simple installation without tearing apart the motor, these will always be one of the most preferred upgrades in a mild, to a moderately modified engine.
SHORT RAM INTAKES: The design and purpose is much like cold air intakes, but short ram intakes get right to the point. These will have a shorter intake pipe and are ideal for those with limited space in the engine bay. Now short ram intakes will not draw in air that is not as cool when compared to a cold air intake setup, but the power gains are still there and are leaps and bounds better than a stock airbox setup. And with some engine designs you have no choice but to install a short ram intake setup. However, you don't have any limitations when compared to the factory airbox, and for compensation, many short ram intake designs will come with an air box to shield the filter from hot engine bay temperatures. Again with a proper tune for the majority of short ram setups, you will have noticeable power and torque gains throughout the entire RPM range.
HIGH-FLOW REPLACEMENT FILTERS: These are for enthusiasts who are 100% content with the car's power and performance right out of the factory and that is absolutely respectable because, at the end of the day, it will be more reliable. But if you want to allow your engine to breathe a little easier we carry performance drop-in alternatives when it's time to replace your dirty OEM filter. The examples that we carry will flow much better than the OEM unit without sacrificing any of the filtering capabilities. And, the installation is usually very simple and straightforward.
TURBO INLET HOSES AND PIPES: Very important in the Subaru world, and highly effective on other setups that feature an accordion-style factory intake pipe. For Subarus, the factory inlet pipe is prone to cracks and tears. Over time, mileage, multiple heat cycles, and engine vibration, all of these factors will cause your factory turbo inlet to tear which can have an effect on your performance. This can trigger a check engine light as your MAF will have inconsistent air readings from the unmetered air your turbo is breathing in. And the corrugated pipe will cause air turbulence during acceleration. The examples we carry all feature durable multi-layered silicone construction that has smooth interior walls to allow an unobstructed flow of air, and all have a high tolerance to heat to provide you with long-lasting performance.
INTAKE MANIFOLDS: Two main reasons why you need to be in this section. You either want to upgrade to the Subaru OEM red intake manifold, or you are making so much power that you are surpassing the CFM limits of your factory intake manifold. You will find pure art examples from Process West, and you will find proven performance examples by the record setters at AMS. Both of these will also provide a race-like aesthetic under the hood for those of you demanding enthusiasts who only want the best.
THROTTLE BODY HOSES: Just like the turbo inlet hoses, your OEM throttle body hose will experience age, mileage, multiple heat cycles, and engine vibration which will cause your factory throttle body hose to lose its internal strength. Under load, the throttle body hose can expand enough to cause a boost leak large enough for you to lose power. If your vehicle is down on power, perform a boost leak test and make sure this particular hose is not leaking any air. The examples we carry are all multi-layered silicone hose construction with smooth interior walls with a high heat tolerance to improve the overall throttle response in your vehicle.
COOLING: One of the biggest areas you need to keep an eye on aside from oil pressure and your wideband O2 readings, is the overall cooling to your engine. Heat is one of the biggest killers of our engines because our engines are large blocks of metal that move in high repetitions and cycles and need proper lubrication and cooling to survive. What happens if your engine overheats? As in, your temp needle is pegged and you don't pull over and see what's wrong? You will lose head gaskets, your head or head(s) can warp - meaning that the mating surface is uneven, and this is considered to be catastrophic engine damage, and if you have a Subaru, the engine will need to come out. What happens if your oil temps get too high? This can happen at the track or if you live in Phoenix in the middle of July. Your oil can lose its viscosity and lubricating properties, and pressure to send on your way to a new engine. What happens if your intake charge temperatures are too high? Heat soak happens. This will limit your power and potential to the turbocharger causing it to work overtime, and you put a ceiling on your performance, and it's time for a larger intercooler. Let's prevent all of this from happening and take a look at how we can increase the overall cooling efficiency.
RADIATORS: OEM radiators are a wear-and-tear item. Where do they fail? The majority of OEM radiators will have plastic end tanks. These end tanks experience thousands of heat cycles, and after age and mileage, they can't hang on any longer and those stress cracks from all of the pressure will create a leak. What is the fix? We carry all-aluminum radiator options from the likes of Mishimoto, Koyo, and CSF among other quality brands. All aluminum units increase the overall cooling efficiency, can endure the pressure to be an end-all-be-all replacement, and if you experience damage from road debris that creates a leak, a good welder can typically repair all aluminum units.
RADIATOR HOSES: Like the radiator, your factory radiator hoses will experience just as many heat cycles with expanding pressure every time you drive. The problem is that the OEM radiator hoses are made with fiber-reinforced rubber that will break apart over time, causing the hose to expand to the point where it will bust. This can lead to overheating, and leave you stranded on the road with catastrophic engine damage if you somehow ignore the problem. If you notice your engine temps getting hot and you notice any steam or smoke coming out of the hood, pull over safely and shut the car off immediately. The radiator hose options that we carry feature multi-layer silicone construction that won't expand under pressure, to provide you with improved cooling efficiency with more reliability.
INTERCOOLERS: These are one of the most important components for turbocharger performance. The Subaru WRX and STI are known for experiencing heat soak issues with the factory top-mount as it sits near the turbocharger which generates a lot of heat. The thermal capacity will be surpassed, and you cannot reach the full performance potential of your engine, your turbocharger, and especially other modifications that increase power and torque. The only remedy is getting a larger top mount setup with more surface area, or you go to a front mount intercooler setup where it can experience the coolest intake charge effect. We carry many great options along with INTERCOOLER PIPING KITS to get you properly squared away so you can optimize the power and cooling efficiency of your turbocharger.
FLUID COOLERS: Why do all race cars have multiple fluid coolers? The engine lives in the upper RPM range for long periods of time. The oil can lose its viscosity and lubricating properties if it gets too hot. If the transmission or differential fluid gets too hot you can experience a catastrophic drivetrain failure. The same technology is available for those of you who need to increase the cooling efficiency of your oil or transmission. Now many factory engine designs do include an oil cooler that will supplement the cooling for bumper-to-bumper traffic or for prolonged inclines. However, we have oil cooler kits that include all of the required lines and fittings for the installation, and we have universal application oil cooler cores to allow users to mount the cooler in the desired area while you create your own oil lines. Many options will prolong your engine's performance and longevity with cooler and safer temperatures.
OVERFLOW / EXPANSION TANKS: Another component especially in the Subaru platform that desires an improvement both in aesthetics and function. For example earlier on WRX/STI models, the factory expansion tank sits on top of the passenger side intake manifold/strut tower and over time it develops an almost oxidized and rusty look from years of coolant adding or leaking. And some of you may have experienced cracked expansion tanks. And on BRZ/FR-S/86 models, the filler neck on these models is prone to breaking anytime you had to perform maintenance that required removal of the factory unit, and this is because of the brittle plastic construction. We carry a great selection of overflow and expansion tanks, filler necks, and all relatable items associated with these components. Please don't forget to get yourself a new RADIATOR CAP anytime e you get a new expansion tank or radiator. And if you are trying to diagnose an unresolved overheating or even underheating - yes that is possible if your engine is not reaching operating temperatures, replace your THERMOSTAT for good measure.
ELECTRIC FANS: Extremely crucial to make sure your electric fans are working. If you have OEM electric fans or want to upgrade to units that push or pull more air through your radiator, we have several options available in slimmer variants as well to fit in tight spaces. Nothing will test out your anxiety more than if you get caught in a traffic jam and your fans aren't working. Your temps will skyrocket quickly if it's on a summer afternoon in the middle of the 405. If you don't have a factory fan clutch which is where you have a fan that spins with your water pump pulley, or if you want to make more space by taking out your fan clutch for other fabricated means, please make sure you have upgraded electric fans, and that they work accordingly.
This covers the main areas in your cooling system. Keep your coolant temps at bay and your engine will be happy. After 100k miles, you've probably replaced the radiator by now, if not, make sure you thoroughly inspect or replace the components with stronger components such as an all-aluminum radiator with the appropriate silicone hoses. This will provide you with long-lasting performance and peace of mind if you're stuck on the 405 or if you're blasting down your local race track.
ENGINE DRESS UP: We get to lighten up a little here after a little overheating doom and gloom see above. Welcome to the engine dress-up section. This is where you get to make the engine in your daily driver or weekend show car stand out with more color and better aesthetics with improved function for performance. You're going to find powder-coated everything, anodized everything, and carbon fiber everything in terms of engine covers, radiator shrouds, hardware, and all the fun things in between. The factory engine bay looks like every single engine bay of the same year make and model as yours that rolls off the assembly line. Now is your chance to customize the overall theme to your liking.
ALTERNATOR COVERS: These are some of the most popular visual enhancements in the engine bay due to the fact that the factory alternator cover is a small plastic bland-looking piece. We carry a large selection of upgrades brought to you by the most familiar brands that include the likes of GrimmSpeed, PERRIN, and COBB Tuning among several other quality brands. There are several aluminum options that are available in a variety of powder-coated choices to add more color to your engine bay. And there are carbon fiber options to provide your engine bay with a highly modified look. All of the options will have more coverage to provide extra protection for your hands if you are looking at the engine while running, and from road debris while driving.
ENGINE COVERS: Like alternator covers, these will serve a very similar purpose which is to replace your factory engine cover with a quality replacement that provides your engine bay with more color and aggressive styling. There are options for many makes and models, and aside from powder-coated aluminum options, there are several options that feature the latest in carbon fiber design, including forged carbon fiber. From multi-piece kits, coil covers, and everything else in between, this is one of the simplest means of enhancing the look of your engine bay.
RADIATOR SHROUDS: Not only do these really enhance your engine bay, but they do serve a few purposes. The main purpose behind the design is to make sure the incoming air makes the most efficient contact with the face of your radiator or front-mount intercooler. This will ultimately improve the overall cooling efficiency as the air would otherwise be deflected. Not only do these improve the overall engine bay aesthetics, but some of us place tools on them as we are performing maintenance (do this at your own risk you will still lose your 10mm). All of our options are brought to you by nearly 20 of the most trusted brands in the performance industry, and many options and designs to choose from to customize your engine bay to your liking.
BOLT REPLACEMENT: Some of our beloved models are 20+ years old, and if you are in the process of restoring the engine bay with a fresh rebuild with all new hoses and engine covers, another extra measure to take is to replace the exposed hardware. We carry engine bay dress-up bolts and some of which are titanium. We carry different color options to replace your old hardware to prove a fresh look to your engine bay that will be appreciated by fellow enthusiasts with an eye for detail.
ENGINE MANAGEMENT: One of the most important areas to consider especially if you are performing any sort of engine modification that will increase your boost levels, horsepower, and torque. If you try to perform modifications without a proper tune you will injure your engine. If you move to another state and have a tune suited for your elevation levels and your new state has a higher or lower elevation, you will need to adjust. You need to make sure your air/fuel ratios are within a safe strike zone under load. Failure to have a proper and professional tune and/or engine management system could result in you becoming familiar with engine rebuilds and replacements.
PLUG-AND-PLAY ENGINE MANAGEMENT: Plug-and-play engine management is the simplest form of tuning your engine without having a complete standalone setup. The most popular option that we carry is the COBB Tuning Accessport. This is one of the most utilized and available plug-and-play engine tuning devices available for the aftermarket, and this unit will plug into your vehicle's OBD2 port hence why these are called plug-and-play. Aside from the Accessport, we also carry other options that include but are not limited to the likes of the Open Flash Tuning Tablet, the SCT handheld devices, and Integrated Engineering's ECU Flash Tune device. And for your convenience, there are many off-the-shelf maps available to match the staged modifications you have in your vehicle, as well as future modifications later on.
STANDALONE ENGINE MANAGEMENT: Now you're in real race car territory. Note that these should only be tuned by professional and experienced tuners, and although some of you like to learn on your own, the wrong timing settings or fuel tables will lead to catastrophe. Stand-alone engine management systems completely replace your ECU and provide you with full control of every major engine parameter. From boost levels, and timing levels, where you want your injectors to deliver the highest duty cycles, cold starts, anti-lag, rolling anti-lag, tunes for pump gas, tunes for ethanol, fail safes, and everything in between. Stand-alone engine management systems are found in virtually every race car, and high-powered street cars making horsepower levels than can only be achieved with adjustments that you cannot do with a plug-and-play unit. A handheld plug-and-play device fights against the ECU or makes adjustments that the ECU can agree with whereas a standalone unit will do what the tuner wants it to do. We carry units by AEM which have been proven and utilized by professional race teams of different racing genres to allow you to make the desired adjustments you need to make.
ENGINE MANAGEMENT SENSORS: Here you will find the main sensors you will need to surpass factory boost levels. Mainly MAP sensors, you will find 3 BAR and above to suit your horsepower and boost level goals. You will also find replacement O2 sensors for your OEM ECU, and wideband sensors that are required to provide you with accurate readings.
What makes power and sound out of a quality exhaust system is really narrowed down to two main factors. These are smooth bends and a larger piping diameter. The factory exhaust system in your vehicle must be universally compliant with most worldwide sound ordinances. And this is actually difficult from a manufacturer design standpoint. Trying to design an exhaust system that has to be within and obey the majority of statutes while trying to deliver the most performance throughout all elevation levels, and climate conditions, without triggering any alarms within your engine control unit. So the trick is to design an exhaust that is cost-effective for the manufacturer and flows just enough to make competitive performance numbers while being within the safe confines of manufacturer guidelines.
Because of these reasons, the factory exhaust system in any performance vehicle for that matter leaves much room for improvement. Here is where we come in.
CAT BACK EXHAUST SYSTEMS: This is the most popular option. Why? It generates all the sound. Cat-back exhaust systems typically feature a muffler, and sometimes not, and these will have piping that will route to your catalytic converter. The piping will have larger bends that are as straight as possible to provide an unobstructed exit path for the exhaust gases. This will improve the throttle response and acceleration in naturally-aspirated cars. The same reaction will be found in cars with forced induction with the addition of less turbo lag or supercharger response. Cat-Back exhaust systems are the most popular, coveted, and sought-after modification that enthusiasts will initially perform because of the main reason, and that is the sound. All of the brands we carry offer exhaust systems that are the result of decades of research and development. All are capable of delivering a race-inspired exhaust note along with more power and torque. And this is why cat-back exhaust systems are considered to be one of the best performance modifications that are rewarding in power and sound and are highly effective for all driving purposes.
DOWNPIPES AND Y-PIPES: Downpipes and Y-pipes are essential to unlocking substantial amounts of performance out of your turbocharged vehicle. Subaru WRX models throughout all generations, Mitsubishi Evolutions, the Mazdaspeed platform, and everything else in between with a turbo come from the factory with a highly restrictive downpipe. As a matter of fact, these are so restrictive that some of these platforms required a tune to successfully employ a downpipe. You have a substantial amount of unlocked flow that will make your turbocharger react much faster which will generate more horsepower, more torque, and more speed. Downpipes are one of the main ingredients in terms of basic upgrades, just make sure you complement your downpipe with a proper intake to allow your turbo to properly inhale. Y-pipes or mid-pipes, the link between your downpipe and primary or secondary cat converter. Not all platforms have a mid-pipe or Y-pipe, however, there are powerful platforms such as the Nissan GTR or A90 Toyota Supra that can benefit from a proper mid-pipe or Y-pipe.
EXHAUST HEADERS AND MANIFOLDS: For those of you who desire more performance, and we all do, the next level of performance requires the upgrade of your factory exhaust manifolds. Also known as turbo header for turbocharged vehicles, or "headers" for those with naturally-aspirated cars, or simply exhaust manifold, a proper unit flows more exhaust gases faster when compared to your factory components. A proper exhaust manifold will also be required if you desire to make more power that surpasses the flow limits of your factory manifold. If you want to maximize the performance out of your factory turbocharger, an upgraded manifold is the way to go. If you upgraded to a larger turbocharger and are running more boost in your purpose-built race car, you will need a proper manifold to support the flow. When compared to your factory heavy cast log-style manifold, aftermarket options have longer tubular runners that smoothly meet collectively at the mounting flange. No flow restrictions mean more power. A must-have for those of you who have substantial power goals in mind.
AXLE-BACK SYSTEMS: Now this is a great option for those of you who don't really desire to make a large amount of power, but simply want to make more sound. This is the easiest exhaust modification you can perform, and the installation typically makes for a fun weekend project in your driveway with basic tools. You can choose from options with integrated mufflers, or you can choose muffler deletes if you desire something more louder and aggressive. Either option will be much, much lighter when compared to that boat anchor of a factory muffler. Additionally, the axle-back systems we offer provide performance gains as well. As the piping will be slightly larger, with smooth bends, yes, the main ingredients for a performance exhaust. If you don't want a full cat-back system or above, but mainly desire the sound, an axle-back system will be an excellent choice to satisfy your driving experience.
CROSSPIPES: These are another link in the exhaust system where power gains can be discovered. We offer front pipes and exhaust manifold front pipes for turbocharged applications like the Subaru WRX and newer Honda Civic models. However, we also carry options for naturally-aspirated options such as the BRZ/86 models. All of which will further optimize the flow in the rest of your exhaust system for maximum power potential.
TURBO UP PIPES: For those of you with Subaru's, especially early WRX models, a performance up-pipe is a great upgrade, especially for your turbocharger. The up-pipe is the mounting point for your turbo. What happens, is that over several heat cycles, age, and miles, the insides of your factory up-pipe can break apart causing a flow blockage. If you have experienced a sudden loss in power or if your Subaru feels sluggish, think about that up-pipe. We carry many performance options with larger piping and with a smoother bend to allow that turbo to react and flow quickly for a nice jump in power. Although the installation can be painstaking, the overall feeling and gains make this a highly worthwhile upgrade.
EXHAUST GASKETS AND HARDWARE: Anytime you perform maintenance that requires you to remove any exhaust component that requires a gasket, it is always a good idea to replace that said gasket, or at the very least thoroughly examine the existing gasket if you must re-use it. The reason is that exhaust gaskets will experience more heat than the rest of the components in the engine bay. And your gaskets could become brittle and come apart upon removal. Could you imagine if you upgraded the up-pipe in an 03 WRX and didn't switch out the gaskets only to hear a loud tractor-like noise upon startup? Always check or replace your gaskets. We carry every multi-layer steel option with fire rings that will provide an optimal seal. And if you have a warped manifold stud, please do yourself a favor and replace those units as well.
EXHAUST HANGERS: Your factory exhaust system is very heavy, and the OEM exhaust hangers are made from rubber that will weaken over time. We carry a great selection of urethane mounts that will keep your exhaust movement down to a minimum. Additionally, we have exhaust hangers available in different lengths to support any cat-back system you may install on your application.
EXHAUST HEAT SHIELDS AND HEAT WRAP: Because the turbocharger is connected to the up-pipes on your Subaru, and directly to your exhaust manifold on other models, there can be a lot of heat generated under the hood during operation. We carry upgraded versions of exhaust heat shields that will not only contain the heat within the turbocharger but will also improve the overall engine bay aesthetics. You can choose from an exhaust heat wrap to cover your exhaust manifolds or downpipe to further reduce the heat. If you have a larger turbocharger that exceeds the installation method of your heat shield, you can choose a turbo blanket. Many safe options to protect your surrounding engine components from excessive heat, while reducing the chances of heat soak to your intercooler.
FUEL SYSTEM: One of the critical and key areas to address whenever you are modifying your engine to make more boost and more power. Anytime you perform modifications that increase power, you need to supplement the power with a proper amount of fuel. Otherwise, you will lean out your engine and melt a piston. With mild modifications, sometimes you can get away with a higher-flowing fuel pump. But when you start making nearly 400 wheel and above, you want to start upgrading to larger injectors, a larger fuel pump to feed those injectors. A fuel pressure regulator to have a solid static base pressure while idling, and upgraded fuel lines so that the fuel can flow. If you are hitting boost cut under load, you may have maximized your injector output or duty cycle. If you want to convert to ethanol, you must run a larger injector and pumps because ethanol requires a larger duty cycle. In this section, you will find all of the main fuel system upgrades and enhancements to supplement your fuel system accordingly to your upgrades.
FUEL PUMP KITS: If you need more fuel flow for your basic upgrades, or if you need a fuel pump with a larger LPH to feed the fuel necessary for your larger kits we certainly have an option. LPH stands for liters per hour, and your factory fuel pump can only produce so much volume before you hit fuel cut under load. The kits we have available are brought to you by the most established brands in the performance aftermarket, and there are several plug-and-play options that allow you to make a direct swap for your OEM unit. You can find the basic 255 LPH fuel pump and then we have units that produce 450+ LPH for bigger power applications. Depending on what injector size you have and what type of fuel you will be running, we have an option that will feed your engine with a proper amount of fuel to allow you to make the power you need.
FUEL INJECTORS: The next logical upgrade in your fuel system. When you have an intake, downpipe, and cat-back, some platforms with a proper tune can make substantial power gains with these basic modifications. However, you will hit a ceiling before things get dangerous. Meaning, you will need to upgrade your injectors so you don't lean out your engine. Your factory injectors can only handle so much volume so you need to go to a larger injector size. With a proper tune, 800-1200cc injectors provide a great amount of volume with great street manners. Anything larger your MPG will be affected but when you're making big power fuel economy is usually not considered. Make sure you have a proper tune to make sure your driving manners are smooth with a good cold start and a good idle.
FUEL RAILS: Fuel rails will be required especially if you are running a larger injector. You will need the proper fuel flow required to supplement the injectors. The fuel rails we carry will all feature a larger internal bore. We carry several upon several options brought to you all by familiar brands that you cannot go wrong with. For Subaru models, we have great top feed and side feed options for those of you who need to build a parallel system and we carry fuel rails for other makes and models such as the Mitsubishi Evolution because all turbocharged vehicles love to drink more than others. With a smaller injector size, you might be able to get away with utilizing your factory fuel rails, but hardly the case. It is always wise to upgrade any component within your fuel system that promotes unobstructed flow so that your tune and the welfare of your engine will stay strong.
FUEL SYSTEM KITS: This is a great option for those of you who want to rule out any guesswork when building your fuel system. The fuel system kits will include pre-cut fuel lines, fittings, and in a few cases injectors to allow the user to have a direct bolt-on system that will work with moderate performance upgrades. Kits are available from DeatschWerks, IAG, and Radium to supplement the fuel system in your WRX or in your Evo., just add a proper fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator to complete your kit.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS: You have a larger fuel pump, and you have larger fuel injectors and fuel rails, now you will need a fuel pressure regulator. As the name suggests, fuel pressure regulators will control the fuel going into your injectors so that you don't have rich or lean running conditions. Depending on your application, base fuel pressure is set anywhere from 43 psi to 50 psi, and if you have a high-flowing fuel pump or more than one fuel pump, fuel pressure regulators are also used as a tool because a low reading on your FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR GAUGE could indicate that your fuel pump is getting weak, you may have debris in your fuel system, or you could have an internal or external leak.
FUEL FILTERS: These are especially important if you run ethanol as ethanol can break down certain fuel components over long periods of use. As much as we love how affordable ethanol is when compared to race gas, prolonged use can cause other internal fuel components made of rubber to come apart if you do not run a cycle of pump gas every once in a while. Additionally, older gas stations have tanks where the insides break apart and little particles can make it through the filtering system and into your tank. This is really important to consider with a built fuel system as the overall tune and running welfare of your engine greatly relies on how clean your fuel is, and how well it flows. We carry a big selection of fuel filters that feature stainless steel mesh cartridges that are serviceable in case you happen to find debris that can disrupt your fuel flow. Make sure you check on these every year to make sure your fuel system is properly filtered and making proper fuel pressure.
IGNITION SYSTEMS: Another very crucial component in how your engine runs overall with the tune, the boost in engines with forced induction, and the entire RPM range despite what your engine has and what has been done to it. In order to avoid hesitation or bucking under load, you need a strong ignition system, especially when making more power. Additionally, you need to make sure that your spark plugs are in the correct heat range. The rule of thumb is that the more modifications you have, the colder your spark plug must be. Also with coil packs, the OEM units can deliver so much power to the plugs, but that does not mean they can handle more boost and more power. Make sure you determine if your coil packs can handle the current amount of modifications you have on your vehicle.
SPARK PLUGS: From platinum, coppers, or iridium, we have the spark plug for your sport compact. You can find NGK, Denso, HKS, and OEM spark plugs for those of you who want to keep things factory. Often times in most applications, when you add more power you need to upgrade to a colder spark plug to keep up with the spark output. Typically a step colder should work just fine, but along with your modifications, your plug gap plays a role, and of course race gas at sometimes ethanol can shorten the lifespan of your spark plugs. With that being said, iridium plugs are more durable and will have a longer shelf life.
COIL PACKS: When performing modifications that add more power and boost, you will need a coil pack that can produce a higher spark current. OEM coil packs can only develop so much spark, and sometimes they can work with aftermarket ignition amplifiers to generate more spark. But with age and mileage, why not upgrade your current set? We carry great examples from the likes of Ignition Projects, and Okada Projects among others that will deliver a powerful spark needed when running high boost to make sure you have a linear powerband under full throttle.
MOTOR BUILDS: If you're here, then let's give your car stronger guts. pistons, rods, crankshafts, valves, forged this, forged that. All of these are required when chasing that highly addictive feeling which is called horsepower. Below we list the main ingredients needed to allow you to get back on the road or track with the finest components brought to you by the most familiar names in the industry.
PISTONS: These are going to be the main organs inside your engine. A bad tune, detonation, and a lean condition are what typically melts a piston. Especially your factory-cast pistons. Detonation almost shares the same force as a hammer beating on the top of your piston at any stroke position depending on how bad the pre-ignition is. The same force can also lead to bent rods. What is a good solution? Forged. Forged pistons are stronger, and can sustain higher levels of boost or endurance for those weekend track days. We carry pistons from the most well-known brands in the industry that include but are not limited to the likes of Wiseco, CP, and Manley. Depending on how much machining your engine needs, we carry a great selection of pistons in larger bore sizes. And speaking of the cylinder bore, we also carry Darton sleeves. These sleeves will reinforce the cylinder walls to reduce the chances of cracking due to heat or high levels of boost. Sleeves are ideal for those of you who are building a motor for drag racing where you are running the largest amount of boost for the shortest period of time. Sleeves are also ideal for those of you with a rally car or a time-attack build where your RPM levels will spend the majority of the time in the upper RPM range.
CONNECTING RODS: Also, hold as much responsibility as the pistons do. After all, they're attached to the piston and are the link between the piston and the crankshaft. Connecting rods pull and push the piston up and down in the cylinder while getting pulled and pushed by the crankshaft. If you've heard the term, "windowed the block", this means you've ran enough boost to send a connecting rod literally out of your short block. How does this happen? Either too much boost that stretches a connecting rod, or driving while having rod knock which is a prevalent issue in improperly maintained Subarus unfortunately. Both scenarios are relative because this happens when enough clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft journal becomes wide enough that you will hear an audible knock. You will immediately lose oil pressure, and all of the metallic debris from the connecting rod bearing will get wedged between the connecting rod and the crankshaft journal. Friction and heat increase due to the lack of oil pressure, and eventually, the connecting rod could try to weld itself onto the crankshaft journal and the rod has no choice but to bend, break, and cause the most catastrophic engine failure. If you hear an audible engine knock coming from the bottom of your engine, please do not continue to rev the engine as you would only be increasing the damage. And if you're past this point, might as well upgrade. Like the pistons we carry, we have forged connecting rods. The stronger the connecting rod, the fewer chances of the rod stretching which will create an imbalance. Manley, Tomei, Brian Crower, and Wiseco - are some of the major brands we carry. We also carry options in different profiles that offer stronger thicknesses required to handle more power. If you are this deep into your build, invest in a quality connecting rod to further secure the strength of your engine.
HEADS: For those of you who aren't 100% gear headed, you might have heard of the terms long block and short block. What is this? Think of your engine as a square block of metal. Now divide it by two. The bottom half will be the short block that encases the crankshaft, pistons, and rods. The main organs of the engine. The upper half consists of the heads. The heads are in charge of the breathing and exhaling of the engine. They breathe in the air aka intake, and they exhale the gases, aka exhaust. You have the intake valves that bring in the air from the intake, and you have the exhaust valves that exhale exhaust gases from the turbocharger or from the exhaust side of the head in naturally-aspirated applications. Inside the "ports," you can see the stems of the valves inside the mechanical abyss, and these will move up and down during combustion. The intake valves open as they breathe, and the exhaust valves open when there is combustion inside the cylinder. Now typically, when you have blown a head gasket, again, unfortunately, a prevalent Subaru issue hence why we carry so many heads and head components, you would take your heads to a machine shop where they will thoroughly inspect the heads for any cracks and warping due to heat. The heads will typically be resurfaced so that the mating areas between the heads and short block will be flat to provide an appropriate seal. If a timing belt snaps on a non-interference engine, then the piston makes contact with the valves because they are now out of timing range, and severe head damage will occur. If your head is cracked, then get new heads. If your heads are so warped due to heat, then they will almost be "bowed" enough to where you cannot achieve a proper flat mating surface.
THE PERFORMANCE BEHIND HEADS: If you plan on making higher boost levels, at a minimum, you will have to upgrade your VALVE SPRINGS. Upgrading your valve springs is typical with all higher-powered engine builds. As your factory valves cannot keep up with the tolerances of high-lift camshafts, and with factory valve springs, you would otherwise experience leaking valves, floating valves, or broken valves. Upgraded valve springs are much stiffer, and will increase the reacting pressure, and sealing of your valves. Stronger VALVES are a good idea as well. If you are rebuilding an engine and you still have your 100k mile valvetrain and just want to have your machine shop cut costs, it will cost you more later on. You could have detonation damage, or you could have chips on the edges of your valves that could cause leaks, and you could also have stress cracks within your valve heads that can't be seen. The valves we carry are the result of careful and highly expensive manufacturing methods, all of which are designed to withstand the perils of higher boost and higher power. If you are having your heads re-machined and are upgrading your turbo and fuel to make more boost, consider a fresh set of valves brought to you by brands such as GSC, Manley, and Brian Crower which are utilized by worldwide race programs. And for those of you who just don't have the time to wait, and want the best in the business, you can get yourself a set of built and staged HEADS that are pre-assembled with the best valvetrain available. You get upgraded valves, and valve springs with the port work is already completed. This is for the serious enthusiast who demands the absolute best for their engine and is fortunate enough to make it happen. Heads whether you start with a freshly built set or are having your machine shop resurface and refurbish them, play a vital role in the overall welfare of your engine, and its performance.
CAMSHAFTS: From GSC, Kelford, Tomei, and Brian Crower, of course, we have cams. Camshafts are available in a variety of different durations. Meaning, the cam lobes can be slightly, or fairly longer to offer more top-end power and can work with your stock valvetrain, or, we have aggressive degrees of duration for those of you building engines that make 1000 horsepower or more, through a monster-sized turbocharger. For the most part, you must have upgraded valve springs at the least to handle the increased duration of the camshafts. A smaller duration such as a 256-degree camshaft, for example, is a great choice for those of you with a slightly larger turbo upgrade, and who want a stronger pull throughout the entire RPM range. And if you have a built valvetrain with ported heads. A 272-degree camshaft and above will produce that aggressive "chop" at idle, and these will typically need a professional tune to run as smoothly as sustainably possible. For example, a higher duration camshaft will produce higher trap speeds at a drag strip, and will also produce more MPH on a road course straightaway. Camshafts really maximize the flow efficiency out of your turbocharger and will lift the power ceiling that you would otherwise be limited to with factory camshafts.
CRANKSHAFTS: The crankshaft is responsible for doing all of the heavy lifting internally. Your connecting rods are attached to the crankshaft, and the crankshaft is torqued down into the bottom of the short block on the main journals. The problem is, if you spin a bearing or break a rod, those fine metallic bearing materials will make their way into all of the bearing journals, and through the oil pump, and will scratch the crankshaft journals to the point where you will lose oil pressure, and your engine will have a painful death. The only time you should ever replace a crankshaft is if your machine shop decides that the damage on the journals is too much to weld material on, sand it down, and polish it out again while being re-sized with a new bearing. Yes, it is a machining process, and there have been risks where repaired crank journal areas will separate from the crank and wipe out the motor again. There is that risk. Because of these reasons, we have crankshafts that are available separately. We have OEM Subaru crankshafts to get you back on the road, and we also carry forged stroker crankshafts for those of you who are boosting to the moon. Depending on how damaged the journals are on your existing crankshaft, getting a brand new unit is the more reliable way to go if your current crankshaft needs material welded back on the journals to make a repair.
SHORT BLOCKS: When it comes to having your mechanic, your friend, or a local shop that has good reviews, assembling a high-performance motor can be unnerving especially in the wrong hands. You have your bearing clearances that need to be within spec with no room for mistakes as your engine works harder when the turbo spools, or when you're at a high-performance driving event. Most importantly, you have a piston ring gap. The more horsepower you try to make, the wider, looser, or more specific your piston ring gap needs to be. The difference between an experienced engine builder that pushes out daily drivers is different from an experienced engine builder who knows how to prepare a short block for abusive driving. Because of these reasons, we have staged short blocks. These are mainly for the Subaru platform, but we have staged short blocks built by IAG Performance which are hands down, some of the best in the Subaru industry. All of their engines are assembled in clean environments free of any harmful airborne debris. All clearances were checked with bore gauges and dial indicators and rechecked with proper torque specs. It is a matter of installing all of the required gaskets and seals, heads, and all required accessories to be ready for the initial fire-up. Again many staged power options are available. Closed deck options are available, as well as hybrid short blocks are available to suit your power goals, your driving style, or your will to win at the next track event.
LONG BLOCKS: Like the short block option, we have pre-assembled long blocks. Again mentioned several thousand words earlier, short blocks are the bottom half of your engine. An engine assembled with heads is essentially a completely assembled engine minus the turbo, intake manifold, alternator, and other accessories. This will be the long block. In all honesty, if you've got the means to get an entire long block, not only are you lucky, but you are saving yourself time and guesswork. Like our short blocks, we carry long blocks assembled by IAG Performance. And again like the short blocks, the long blocks are professionally assembled in clean dust-free environments with all correct clearances and torque specs. For your convenience, our long block selections are also available in different staged power options. This means you can get a long block with cams already clearanced and installed. Secured with ARP hardware and forged internals. All you would have to do is connect your turbo, intake manifold, alternator, all pumps, all solenoids, and wiring and it is ready to drop in. But all of this professional work and components do come at a price. Although expensive, it is a wise investment in terms of having an assembled product from some of the most experienced hands in the industry. Other than having the motor installed, you would be responsible for a proper tune, and a proper break-in period. Afterward, your new engine will be ready and versatile enough to make your daily drive to work very enjoyable, while giving you peace of mind at the next weekend track event.
SEALS: Some of the most important seals in your engine are the front main, as well as the rear main seal. These will seal the front and rear sections of your crankshaft and when they leak, it can be pretty bad. Your engine can produce 100+ psi of oil pressure and if you are leaking from either seal, you risk losing your motor quickly from oil starvation. Make sure you use new and reputable quality seals to prevent your new engine from bleeding out the oil.
HEAD GASKETS: If the machine shop bores out your cylinders, make sure you get the correct head gasket that matches your newly machined bores. Otherwise, you will have a whole heap of labor, curse words, and thrown tools right after startup. All of the head gaskets we carry are quality multi-layered steel versions that provide a seal that meets or exceeds OEM quality. And we also carry OEM head gaskets if everything is within factory specs, or if you haven't gone crazy with modifications, and you want a factory-proven part for the next years of driving. Because Subaru's are known for having head gasket issues, make sure you always pay attention to your temperature gauge and never ever drive on an overheated motor. This will make both of your heads warp. Also, check your oil levels regularly for any type of discoloration. If the oil on the dipstick is milky, stop driving immediately to prevent further engine damage. Milky oil is an indication that coolant has mixed with your oil and so your oil will be diluted and will lose all lubricating properties.
GASKETS: If you are making a repair or a rebuild, you must use new gaskets to ensure a proper seal. Re-using old gaskets outside of maybe an exhaust gasket is a terrible idea. We carry OEM gasket kits that include all of the main gaskets needed to suit a rebuild. And we also carry complete gasket kits from companies well-known in the industry that include but are not limited to Cometic, GrimmSoeed, Mahle, or Tomei. All of these gaskets have been manufactured to meet or exceed OEM quality to provide you with a quality seal. These are items you should invest wisely in, and not go for another alternative simply because it's cheaper. Seal your motor properly, and enjoy many great miles and adventures with your newly rebuilt engine.
ROD BEARINGS: One of the most important components in your engine along with main journal bearings. Rod bearings and main bearings work alike and are installed on the crankshaft on the main journals, as well as on the rod journals making a connection to the rods. There is a very fine film of oil that sits between the rod bearing and the rod journal on the crank. This thin film of oil also separates the rod from the journal of the crank and is responsible outside of the oil pump for maintaining oil pressure. If you've heard of the term, "spun a bearing", this happens because of improper bearing clearances, and this damage would occur right off the bat, or you have leaned your motor out with too much boost and a bad tune and you stretched a rod to generate excessive clearance, and both halves of the rod bearing on the crank journal will spin instead of staying in place. A sudden loss in oil pressure is one indicator, followed by an audible knock. And if you really want to confirm, remove your oil pan for any visible metallic glitter on the bottom of the oil pan. The only way to remedy the issue is with a rebuild or a refresh. Notice how seriously we take this issue with the choices brought to you by King, ACL, or Clevite. Available in the right sizes to work with your new, or resurfaced crank journals.
MAIN BEARINGS: Just like rod bearings, the main bearings serve the same purpose, and that is to allow a fine layer of oil to sit between the crankshaft main journals while it sits in the block supported by the main caps. Anytime you rebuild your engine, you should replace your bearings. The only exception is that if you inspect your engine and there is absolutely zero damage on the journals and absolutely no excessive movement then you might be fine. But this is always a no occasion, just use new bearings. Make sure you have the right size, and sure if your machine shop performs a line-hone, you always know exactly what main journal sizes you will need.
THRUST BEARINGS: Thrust bearings and/or thrust washers will install at specific points on your block. These will prevent any excessive forward or backward movement of your crankshaft and will keep it in place. These are typically in one size, and one fitment only and are specific to your application. Make sure you have fresh units installed during your rebuild. The best companies such as King, and ACL have an option that will suit your build.
TIMING BELTS AND ACCESSORY BELTS: Anyone who tries to reuse an old timing belt should be given a jail sentence. The only exception is if you have just installed it, and have to do some sort of repair that requires the removal of a fresh and hardly used belt. Your engine is an interference engine. Remember what interference means? This means that if your timing belt snaps, your valves get in a fight with your pistons. The engine has to come back out, heads need to be removed. Back to the machine shop with new valves. 6 weeks go by before real progress gets made. Get new belts, please. The timing belt kits will come with the water pump and all of the respective components such as the idler pullies. When you change your timing belt you must change your pullies, tensioners, and anything else associated. If your tensioner pully seizes then your belt burns up. More importantly, make sure you check with our owner's manual, and check to see when the appropriate timing belt services are, and never second guess if your belts have been done. If you are performing an engine rebuild, the belts are very simple to do when the engine is out. After the timing belts have been changed, replace your accessory belts with new units as they need to come off during an existing timing belt job, or after you have assembled your engine.
PERFORMANCE HARDWARE: This is crucial when rebuilding your engine. Especially if you are making more power. Like everything else when making power, you have to make everything stronger. This includes some of the main hardware throughout the engine. Now, as you see, we only carry the best brought to you by ARP. ARP is the best in the business, and they are utilized worldwide on just about every record-setting genre of any race car or truck, or motorcycle in any genre of racing. If you have heard of the term, "lifting the heads". This happens because you are running more boost or spraying your engine, or even the combination of the two, and the pressure is so great that the threads on your factory head studs will strip, thus causing your heads to lift. ARP hardware is made using high-tensile alloy materials designed to handle up to 280,000 psi. ARP hardware is typically used to reinforce your heads, your rod caps, as well as your main caps. If you are building something to make 500+ HP, do yourself a favor and invest in the proper hardware to secure your engine.
OIL SYSTEMS: Aside from other makes and models we specialize in, let's talk about our main dish which is the Subaru. Like most flat-designed engines, there are oiling issues. And since the Subaru is a rally-inspired vehicle that has captured the minds and hearts of worldwide enthusiasts, these cars are very fun to drive. And for the inexperienced, perhaps for those who may not be well-versed in the overall maintenance of the EJ, there are some things to look out for just before sending your motor to the moon.
Ever see those youtube videos where a Subaru or even another vehicle is doing donuts in a parking lot and all of a sudden a fireball gets shot out of the bottom of the engine? This happens because the EJ has a standard wet sump oiling system just like most street vehicles, however, because it is a flat design, the oil can slosh from one bank to the other during prolonged lateral forces. So if you're at a local road course with a long bank, or if you're doing donuts in a church parking lot after it snowed the first time, your engine will be revving high with all of the oil shoved to the other side, starving the other side of the motor of lubrication, and now you need another engine. Aside from these scenarios, let's take a deeper dive into the Subaru oiling system, and how we can further prolong the life and the performance of that engine.
OIL PANS: We carry a great selection of deeper oil pans and baffled oil pans for those of you who want to reduce the chances of oil slosh. We also carry OEM STI oil pans for WRX owners who are upgrading the exhaust manifold. You can purchase just the pan, or you can purchase kits that will also include a stronger pickup to give you peace of mind as the factory EJ oil pickup is known for cracking which will lead to engine failure.
OIL CONTROL DEVICES: The factory oil pickup in the EJ series engines is known for failure in some cases, and you wouldn't know until you've lost your motor. How does this happen? The factory oil pickup is known to crack on the joints, or on the actual mesh suction part of the pickup. What will happen is that a cracked oil pickup will suck in air rather than oil which will starve your bearings. You will lose oil pressure, then all of a sudden you are shopping for a new motor. In this section, you will find oil pickups brought to you by Killer B Motorsport and IAG Performance among other manufacturers that have much stronger construction with thicker tubing and thicker welds that will withstand constant motor vibration. You will also find baffles that will prevent sloshing, and other oiling upgrades that will help keep that EJ properly lubricated for regular traffic, or on that weekend autocross event.
OIL PANS: The majority of the oil pans we offer are going to be for the Subaru EJ series engines due to the fact that the oiling system can either benefit from improvements, or you may have an early WRX model and you need the proper clearance when upgrading the exhaust manifold. In that case, we have the OEM EJ25 oil pan but you will also need the EJ25 oil pickup and other required components to make the switch. As far as aftermarket options from the likes of IAG Performance, Killer B Motorsport, and Moroso just to name a few, these have been engineered with baffling and windage trays with a deeper sump to provide your engine with optimal oil control. If you have a built engine, rotated turbo setup, or drive in high-performance driving conditions where your engine could experience prolonged lateral forces, upgrading to one of these oil pans will be one of the best investments in terms of having optimal lubrication protection.
TURBOCHARGERS AND SUPERCHARGERS: This is a highly visited section. Turbochargers are the preferred spice to any engine and make the overall driving experience one to remember. But be careful as we all know how addictive boost can be, yes we want more. Here, you are going to find anything and everything to do with forced induction. You will find upgraded turbochargers for just about any power level from mild to the moon, and we carry bolt-on turbo kits that will include the majority of the key components to make more power. We also carry supercharger kits for you BRZ, FR-S, and 86 owners who don't want to be left behind. Internal and external wastegate upgrades, blow-off valves, boost controllers, and all of the maintenance items are vastly available to make all of the whistling and whooshing noises. But boost responsibly as you are inevitably going to be visiting the motor build section to make your motor stronger for more boost.
TURBOS: If your factory turbocharger is a little tired or if your bolt-ons have surpassed the flow capacity of your current turbocharger, it is time to upgrade. So many options are available brought to you by the most trusted and familiar brands in the turbo performance industry. If you want a direct bolt-on replacement with similar power levels so you don't have to upgrade your fuel or the internals of your engine we have the right option. If you want to make 350-425 wheel with a turbo made for this power level and want a nice linear power delivery we have several options. And if you want to make more than 500 wheel, we also carry several options to suit your needs. However when upgrading turbochargers and depending on how big you go and how much power you want to make, make sure you have the appropriate fuel system, engine management, and engine components to support your decisions, all of which can be found above.
BLOW-OFF VALVES: Aside from the technicalities of relieving the intake system of excessive boost pressure when your throttle body closes to reduce compressor surge which can hurt your turbo, all we care about are the cool noises. Here, you can find all the cool noises. After all, it's one of the fun factors when driving a turbocharged vehicle. You can find the infamous bird chirper known as the HKS SSQ, you can find the turkey gobbler also known as the Tial Q, the raging sneezer known as the TurboSmart Dual Port, and the belching drunkard found in any alleyway on a Friday night. We have literal pages of options to suit your performance and sound needs. Vent to the atmosphere blow-off valves will be the loudest, but in some applications will require a tune to keep your ECU from throwing codes or prevent the car from running rich. We have recirculating options that are quiet and will work just like your factory setup and will recirculate back into your intake. And we have hybrid options which will allow the user to adjust the sound accordingly. On a serious note, however, all of the aftermarket options that we carry will feature stronger springs, and some have adjustable spring options. Because after age and mileage your factory blow-off valve, bypass valve, dump valve, or whatever technical term you choose, will become weak and you will not be hitting target boost numbers. When you have a boost leak, sometimes the turbo will work harder to create more boost to compensate for the loss of boost which can cause premature wear if not addressed in a timely manner. Because of these reasons, blow-off valves serve as performance-supporting modifications other than making intoxicating noises.
TURBO KTIS AND SUPERCHARGER KITS: Here you are either going to find larger turbo setups with the main components to upgrade your OEM setup, and you will find turbo kits and supercharger kits for those of you with a naturally-aspirated engine such as the Subaru BRZ, Scion FR-S, or the Toyota 86. Aside from several Subaru kits, you will find upgraded turbo systems for the BMW N54, or the A90 Supra. With upgraded turbos, the compressor housing design can differ from OEM as they can be larger or have a different charge pipe routing or wastegate setup. Whatever the reason, the kits will include the main components to allow you to bolt onto your engine, and you will need the appropriate tuning or other options to make these kits fully functional. The main purpose is to produce more power, so depending on your power goals, make sure you have enough fuel, and make sure your engine is strong enough to sustain the newfound power levels.
WASTEGATES: Another major component within your turbo system designed to control the boost. We carry a great selection of internal and external wastegate setups. Most all factory turbocharger systems from a modern standpoint will have an internal wastegate setup. This will have a small actuator attached to an arm that opens an internal flap inside your exhaust housing and will open to relieve excessive pressure to maintain a target boost number. External wastegates are necessary when making boost numbers that exceed the power and flow capacity of an internal wastegate setup, but can also provide better overall boost control. External wastegates also make your car sound like a jet engine taking off as it will scream off excessive exhaust gases. Compared to an internal setup, those excessive exhaust gases get pushed back through your exhaust system as an external wastegate setup is essentially a loud exhaust leak during boost. Also a very intoxicating sound, but there are exhaust options that route external wastegate setups back through your downpipe for a more quiet operation. We have a vast selection of both options to suit your needs from mild setups to wastegates designed to hold all of the boost. All of these are only brought to you by the most familiar brands in the turbocharger aftermarket.
ENGINE PACKAGE DEALS: A little similar when compared to staged power packages, this is ideal for enthusiasts who perhaps don't have the budget for now, for a larger build. But make no mistake any of the available kits are capable of generating a noticeable amount of horsepower to take your otherwise stock vehicle to another level. These kits will feature basic performance upgrades such as a cat-back exhaust and intake, and some include a tuning device such as a COBB Accessport.
This covers the majority of your engine's performance. Remember, the overall welfare and longevity of your engine will depend on the tune, followed by a combination of your driving style. If you have a race car or plan on doing heavy driving, make sure you have forged guts. Make sure you upgrade your fuel system at the same time so you don't starve your engine of the amount of fuel, and make sure you are running the right fuel type for higher boost levels. Make sure your engine stays cool from a water and oil standpoint during all driving conditions as well. What it really comes down to is how responsible you can be within you budget. The more power your car makes the stronger your engine will have to be. You cannot get a larger turbo, add fuel and boost and expect the engine to survive unless it is a 2JZ. Stay responsible and sensible, and you will stay on the road.
