ATP Turbo GTX3576R Turbo

Part #: ATT ATP-SUB-030
( 2 reviews )



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Brand: ATP Turbo
Bearing Type: Ball Bearing
Cartridge: Garrett
Fitment: OEM Upgrade
Gaskets Included: No
Inlet Size: 3.0in
Oil Line Included: Yes
Rated Horsepower: 600+hp
Scroll: Single
Wastegate: Internal
Mfgr. Warranty: 12 Months
Return Policy:

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Subaru Impreza
WRX STI 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007WRX STI Limited 2007WRX STI Hatchback 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014WRX STI Special Edition Hatchback 2010WRX STI Limited Sedan 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014WRX STI Limited Hatchback 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014WRX STI Sedan 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014WRX 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007WRX TR 2006, 2007WRX Limited 2006, 2007
Subaru Forester
XT 2004, 2005XT Premium 2005XT Limited 2006, 2007, 2008
Subaru WRX STI
Base 2015

The Garrett GTX Ball Bearing GTX35R (aka GTX3576R aka GTX35/40R), the ultimate 600+ HP capable dual ball bearing turbo, is now available in a drop-in package for the Subaru WRX/STI! The easy to implement turbo assembly that takes no more than 1-2 hours to install in place of the stock journal bearing VFXX unit is made possible by a high flowing GTX inspired ATP exhaust housing and a series of custom engineered components built to suit the installation.

Each GTX drop-in turbo package consists of a Garrett factory assembled and high speed balanced dual ball bearing CHRA which is then assembled into a set of CNC machine ported housings that have been optimized in every aspect for maximum flow and efficiency.

All accompanying oil and coolant supply components included in each kit have been designed to properly and seamlessly bridge the Garrett GTX turbo to the EJ engine so that the fit is as OE as possible.

Just bolt the turbo on, add fueling and a good tune and prepare for a blast of acceleration. Garrett GTX turbos offer more than just "peak HP" numbers. These GTX turbos off more torque area under the curve and more "accessible" power than any other turbos series out there.

We do recommend that you compliment your GTX bolt-on turbo with a nice high flowing bellmouth downpipe and a high flowing inlet pipe to effortless channel air in and out of the turbo. Although every bolt-on GTX turbo ships with a 3" inlet, we do provide a "stepdown" sleeve just in case you're forced to use the stock 2.25" inlet hose. However, as a rule of thumb, turbos, especially higher flowing units love as much inlet flow as possible. This promotes both quicker spoolup and better ultimate HP, with less boost pressure at the manifold. The 3" downpipe and bigger inlet is critical for reaching peak efficiency on the GTX turbo. Please also be aware that some downpipes such as the stock catted downpipe, has a "no-flow" door at the wastegate flapper area. This type of downpipe may not allow the wider swinging wastegate valve to open all the way, thus causing the possibility of a "boost-creep" condition or uncontrollable rise in boost.

The GTX3576R is a great power maker on the 2.5L that still has great spoolup, especially if you're looking for best area under the curve possible, but still need a lot of power in the high revs. The GTX3576R makes boost about 200 to 300 rpms later than the GTX3076R but keeps pumping where the GTX3076R starts to run out after 500HP. A lot of the boost is still available at part to medium throttle. Dual ball bearings means some boost is always there even if you are lugging the engine and boost recovery between gearshifts is awesome with full boost ready even before upshift is complete as the STI lurches forward with shear enthusiasm at the onset of each gear. The 2.0L driver should not rule out the use of the GTX3576R if his HP target is in the same range. This competition grade turbo is still a big favorite for the HP range because it hits like a hammer while other 600HP turbos are still "spooling up".

What sets the GTX apart from the GT series turbo is the new high flowing 11 blade next generation compressor wheel.

2 uppipe gaskets will be needed if using the included spacer.
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Verified Purchase
08STI made 433whp on 20psi
john.boreham73302 10 months ago
Very happy with the result from this turbo. Made 433whp at 20psi and 98 octane fuel. Boost was limited to 20psi as the block has stock bores. Note that installation is not a 2 hour job and is quite fidley. You need a lot of patience. I recommend not using the supplied spacer as I got turbo to fit by grinding some clearance in one of the support brackets. If using the spacer you will need longer studs on the up pipe to botl on the turbo. Removing TGV's are a must as this turbo simply will not fit with TGV hardware in place. I had removed TGV's for airflow gain anyway. Oil breather hard line needs to be modified as it interferes with 3inch turbo inlet. This requires removal of the inlet manifold, remove oil breather pipe, cut it, use rubber hose and clamps to shorten it then re-fit. I also modified my dump pipe for 2 reasons. First the splitter needed to be cut and I made a new one and moved it sideways about a 1/4 inch to clear the larger turbine outlet. Second issue with the dump pipe is that it did not match the shape of the flange on the turbo given large turbine outlet. Used die grinder to match up both the dump pipe and the gasket. Fitting the 3inch silicone coupler between the turbo and inlet pipe was very fidley and required a lot of persistence. Oil and water lines were a piece of cake. Very satisfying to finally get it all fitted and fired up. Supporting mods are Tomei equal length headers, Maximum Moyorsport dump pipe, Perrin cat back, TGV deletes, Cobb 3 port boost valve, Aeromotive fuel rails and regulator, ID1000cc injectors, modified oil breather with custom catch can, custom front mount intercooler, Perrin oil cooler kit, Bosch 044 fuel pump with custom surge tank, top mounted fuel cooler, custom cold air intake, AMS small battery mount, Manley striker kit, Manley rods, Manley forged pitons, Kelford stage 2 cams and Springs. Engine build and tuning done by Racetorque Engineering in Western Australia. We limited boost to 1.4 bar as it is running OE bores. Drive ability is great. This is my daily driver. Start to see some boost around 3500 with full boost around 4200. End result is 433whp at 20psi on 98 octane. Thanks RSD for the outstanding service.
Verified Purchase
not impressed
ianbeesley 3 years ago
very bad fitment, turbo inlet is too close and it squashed the AVO inlet hose, had to do major modifications to move the turbo back and modify the Throttle body wiring plugs.


  • AnswerQ: fitment  tahn87 9 months ago

    According to Ian who posted a 2 star review it has bad fitment, can RSD or anyone from ATP confirm the fitment on 2011 sti? I do have intake phonetic spacer from cosworth if that makes any difference. Also, if an adjustment or modification is required to be made what would it be?

    • A: Any 3 inlet turbocharger is very tight and difficult to fit underneath the intake manifold and the only way to properly avoid this would be to go with a rotated setup. A soft silicone inlet like Perrin's does help make installation a little easier but it can almost always be expected to be a tight fit.

      Nick S. 9 months ago

  • AnswerQ: Spool rpm?  mr_kris7787550 9 months ago

    So I am debating between this turbo and a Blouch Dom 1.5 xtr, but I don't want a monster turbo that does not spool till really late. I am wondering what rpm I could expect this to spool at on a 2005 sti?

    • A: The 1.5XT-R and this 3576R are completely different in power ratings with the 1.5 usually seeing about 350-400whp depending on setup. The 1.5XT-R is likely to spool around 4000-4500rpms, the 3576R can be a whole 300-500rpm+ later depending on setup.

      Nick S. 9 months ago

  • AnswerQ: 3076 or 3576 on hybrid motor.  nickcarr0263368 2 years ago

    I have a 02 wrx with a 257 block and 2.0 heads when would each turbo hit full boost let's say 22lbs.

    • A: We simply do not have data to give any sort of accurate info on that. As there are simply way to many variables to consider. My guess is that a 3076 would be in the low 4000RPM range, and the 3576 would be in the high 4000RPM range. But again that depends on cams, fuel, tune, supporting mods, altitude, ect.

      Kirill C. 2 years ago

  • AnswerQ: Forged internals?  Regan M 2 years ago

    How do you *know* at what point that you need forged internals? Is it the PSI or what exactly?

    • A: It depends from vehicle to vehicle and the strength of the motor, but it is usually not definitive. Most WRX/STis for example it is strongly recommended to have a built motor anywhere past 450whp, but many people will exceed that on a stock block and go easy on the motor.

      Nick S. 2 years ago

    • A: To enjoy your car as it was meant I'd forge and engine past 350WHP for a WRX and 400 for an STI. What's the point on making that sort of power to 'go easy'

      Andrew Jarvie 1 year ago

  • AnswerQ: Turbo Selection 3576 or 3076 help please  john.boreham73302 2 years ago

    I have a built motor in an 08STI with a stroker crank (2.6L) and stage 2 Kelford cams. Valves and ports are stock. I'm looking at the GTX3076 and have read about the results from your 2011 STI. I have similar bolt on parts to yours. I am wondering if the 3576 would be better suited to the stroker crank and cams. The car is a daily driver with track use so I want to retain good driveablility on the street. Can you please provide your thoughts on which would be the better turbo choice?

    • A: You can't go wrong with either turbo, but the 3576 would be better suited for your setup because of the extra airflow from the increased displacement and cams. The 3076 will spool slightly quicker, but this turbo will have more useable power in the higher RPMs and still be good for street use.

      Zach G. 2 years ago